Wine Guide by Huon Hooke

Under $20

Rocland 10 Years Average Age Tawny, Barossa Valley $15

Score 89 Value Excellent

This tawny port has a full amber/tawny colour and the bouquet shows some genuine wood-aged character, giving it hints of polished timber and old leather. It's sweet in the middle, then clean on the finish with alcohol and tannin contributing to the drying sensation. (19.5 per cent alcohol.)

Ageing? Now to five years.

Food Nuts and dried fruits.

Stockists Porter's Liquor, Roseville, and Chippendale Cellars, Sydney;Paul's Supa IGA, Ringwood East, and Liquor Legends Yarraville, Melbourne.

A.C. Byrne Chardonnay, Margaret River 2013 $10

Score 87 Value Very good

This straightforward, probably unwooded chardonnay is fruit-driven and herbal, with some straw/hay aromas and a medium-bodied palate with sprightly acidity. It's delicate, trim and taut, and light- to medium-bodied. (12.9 per cent alcohol.)

Ageing Now to three years.

Food Fried whitebait

Stockists All Aldi stores that sell liquor.

$20-$35

Holm Oak Vineyard Arneis, Tasmania 2013 $30

Score 93 Value Good

Made from a northern Italian grape, this refreshing, fruit-driven, light-bodied dry white has discreetly spicy aromas, some citrusy notes and seamless cleansing acidity. Soft and yet delicate, with subtle complexities. A delicious drink. (12.4 per cent alcohol.)

Ageing Now to three years.

Food Raw or lightly cured fish.

Stockists Sixty Darling Street Cellars, Balmain East, Sydney; Bottle House, South Yarra, Melbourne.

Tarrawarra Estate J-Block Shiraz, Yarra Valley 2012 $35-$38

Score 94 Value Good

There's a smoked, meaty reductive note to start with, plus spicy shiraz aromas and the wine is very slurpable, medium-bodied and easygoing, with soft, powdery tannins. A fine cool-climate shiraz of great drinkability, balance and fine-grained texture. (13.7 per cent alcohol.)

Ageing Now to 15 years.

Food Pink lamb backstraps.

Stockists Prince Wine Store, South Melbourne; Five Way Cellars, Paddington, Sydney.

Indulge Yourself

Michael Hall Greenock Roussanne, Barossa Valley 2013 $38

Score 93 Value Good

Here's an "alternative" white varietal with a real difference. Bright, medium-full yellow colour; rich, ripe stone-fruit bouquet with nutty, honey highlights. It's remarkably complex for a youngster. The palate is full, soft and round, with a gentle grip. Oak is there but not obvious. (12.9 per cent alcohol.)

Ageing Now to four years.

Food Roast free-range Barossa chook.

Stockists The Oak Barrel, Sydney; Armadale Cellars, Melbourne.

Kooyong Farrago Single Vineyard Selection Chardonnay, Mornington Peninsula 2012 $56-$60

Score 97 Value Good

This is simply great chardonnay. The funky aroma has a trace of sulfide, nutty lees complexities and many other nuances leading to a complex bouquet. It's tremendously intense in the mouth, precisely focused and fine, with powerful grapefruit flavours of delicacy and length. (13.5 per cent alcohol.)

Ageing Now to nine years.

Food Crayfish with mayonnaise.

Stockists Prince Wine Store, Melbourne; Best Cellars, Darlinghurst, Sydney.

Wine of the week

Heartland Spice Trader Shiraz Cabernet Sauvignon, Langhorne Creek 2012 $17

Score 91 Value Excellent

A new red from Barossa-based whiz Ben Glaetzer, which seriously over-delivers on its price. The colour is dark red with a purple tint. There's cassis in the bouquet suggesting a cabernet blend. Chocolate and berries. Oak is underplayed. It's rich, fruit-sweet and succulent in the mouth, with delicious flavour and smooth tannins. (14.5 per cent alcohol.)

Ageing Now to seven years.

Food Barbecued pork sausages.

Stockists Summer Hill Wine Shop, Sydney; Melbourne Wine House, winehouse.com.au.

Brew

Amanoto Junmai Daiginjo 35 sake $109 / 720ml

Score 95

A highly fragrant sake, gorgeously floral to sniff, with balanced alcohol and very fine texture on the palate. There's a slight impression of sweetness followed by a clean, balanced finish. Superfine, thanks to milling the rice to 35 per cent of its original size. (16.5 per cent alcohol.)

Food Salmon sashimi.

Stockists Prince Wine Store, Melbourne; Kemenys of Bondi, Sydney.

Something else

Casa Mariol Vermut Negre Vermouth, Tarragona, Spain $39

A cult vermouth based on the macabeo grape famous for Cava, macerated with up to 150 ingredients and aged in a solera system. It's very dark, almost black colour is due to barrel age. In its complex aroma you can identify orange peel, thyme, wormwood and kola. Rich, and not too sweet. Great served on ice with a green olive and orange slice as an aperitif, with or without soda. (15 per cent alcohol.)

Food Pre-dinner nibbles.

Stockists The Oak Barrel, Sydney; Wine Republic, Fitzroy, Melbourne.