Bacchus

Bacchus is luxury incarnate: from the elegant, bronze-hued furnishings, smooth service and an immense wine list to the details, a sommelier making inspired wine suggestions and an affable waiter remembering your name). Dishes such as line-caught fish with clams, braised artichokes and broad beans, are richly flavoured and intricately composed. Yes, 'foams' are ever present but used judiciously. A slow-cooked duck egg with mushroom foam is a rich accompaniment for sauteed mushrooms and a scattering of torn burrata pieces, as does a 'bisque' foam for the crayfish ravioli and tempura claw. At times, the compositions can be a little overworked - the chai souffle and rhubarb sorbet, for example, are heaven enough without their white chocolate companion. If you're looking for something more down to earth, head for the grill menu, with its hefty beasts and sides. Overall, the embellishments and elegance of this lavish establishment outweigh any minor blips in its ambitions.