Circa

Circa’s white dining room still looks a million-plus dollars. The restaurant and adjoining bar are filled with lovely 20th-century designer furniture, the real stuff – no knock-offs here. Food is also the real deal, a little stripped back from past years when it was pitched at a different level. The wine list, at more than 80 pages, is a compendium of the best of Australian and international regions and sub-regions, a riveting read for anyone with an ounce of wine passion. The cooking shows a wonderfully light touch. Chef Ashly Hicks has a strength working with things from the sea – dishes like sweet Queensland spanner crab with a crayfish emulsion with great depth of flavour, or john dory served with leek and a scattering of truffle. There are tempting offerings for two, lamb shoulder or rib-eye, but Sher wagyu rump cap, served sliced with burnt onions and truffle mustard, is a knockout. Round things out with a quenelle of chocolate mousse served with strawberry and Italian-style torched meringue.

And … The ‘Somms and Chef Selection’ menu offers good value.

THE LOW-DOWN
Vibe Whitewashed cool.
Best bit Room to breathe.
Worst bit How do you park in St Kilda?