Three Blue Ducks' Darren Robertson launches Rocker in Bondi

Having put down restaurant roots in Bronte, Byron Bay and most recently in Rosebery, it seemed just a matter of time before Three Blue Ducks co-owner and keen surfer Darren Robertson splashed down in Bondi. As of early June, he'll oblige, with the launch of neighbourhood haunt Rocker.

Named after the nose-to-tail of a surfboard, the new 100-seater has slotted into the former Hill Eatery site on Campbell Parade, offering a cruisy "more European" experience than his earlier ventures.

Part-coffee bar and part-restaurant, the venue will be open seven days for lazy breakfasts, Single Origin brews, and takeaway toasties, and from Wednesday to Sunday for proper lunch and dinner service.

"Bondi has loads to offer anyway but there's still room for a place like this just because of where it is," says Robertson, who is joined by business partners Cam Northway of drinks agency Sweet&Chilli and operations manager Ian Clark.

"There's a bit of a community vibe up in North Bondi. It's just a nice place to hang, up on the grassy knoll – it's beautiful."

Former British butcher Stuart Toon, who worked with Jamie Oliver for nearly a decade, is in charge of the pared-back restaurant menu, which is split into "smalls", "bigs", "sides" and "desserts".

Snacky fare runs from freshwater crayfish with burnt citrus butter to baby octopus with cream fraiche, nasturtiums, preserved limes and caperberries. For mains, think pasta or protein with a twist – orecchiette with clams and urchin or flat-iron steak with beach greens and mustard seeds. Then sides and sweets: iceberg with pickled grapes or a slice of honey pie.

Keep an eye on the strip of parchment paper for a list of wintry specials: sticky lamb ribs, pappardelle lamb ragu or beef cheeks with polenta and pickles.

Former Guillaume sommelier Chris Morrison has put together a mix of progressive and conventional drops as well as beers and premixed cocktails – and yes, that means negroni on tap.

"[We're] trying to find the balance between stuff that is accessible and interesting," Robertson says.

Looks-wise, the wooden floorboards are staying, joined by navy tabletops, simple ceramics and a touch of greenery. No spindly seating either – just "really, really comfortable chairs – slightly Nordic I suppose that will age well".

And because even children know how to eat well these days, there'll be a "little rockers" menu for families who want an early in-and-out dinner.

"That's kind of for the locals and families but if you want to go there for a bit of an occasion [in the evening] then that's available as well," Robertson says.

Coffee bar open daily 7am-early afternoon; restaurant open lunch and dinner, Wed-Sun.

Rocker, 5/39-53 Campbell Parade, Bondi, rockerbondi.com.au.