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Toorak wakes up to Grange Road Egg Shop

Nola James

The breezy interior of Grange Road Egg Shop, Toorak
The breezy interior of Grange Road Egg Shop, ToorakCarmen Zammit

Why open one new cafe when you can have two? After a year-long industry sabbatical Adam Wilkinson (Dennis the Menace, St Edmonds) opens brunch spot Grange Road Egg Shop in Toorak this Thursday December 1; he'll follow that up with "semi-canteen" Lillie in Prahran, a salad-by-the-scoop situation, in January.

Wilkinson isn't interested in reinventing the wheel. "I hate repetition and there's so much of it," he says, choosing local street artist Deams to create a hand-painted bronze and pastel mural alongside quirky-cute egg-shaped tables and Arne Jacobsen Drop chairs for the 100-seat venue, which once housed the salon of society hairdresser Lillian Frank.

Polish-Ukrainian head chef Aleksander Nitecki​ landed his role at Grange Road Egg Shop after a chance encounter with operations manager Damon Glover at the Queen Victoria Market. Most recently at Glovers Station in Glen Eira, Nitecki also has a three-year stint at London's Ottolenghi under his belt.

Fettuccine with blue cheese, broccoli, smoked walnuts and currants at Grange Road Egg Shop, Toorak.
Fettuccine with blue cheese, broccoli, smoked walnuts and currants at Grange Road Egg Shop, Toorak.Carmen Zammit
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Nitecki updates brunch with things like tea- and gin-cured salmon on smoked apple and labne, and a riff on eggs benedict featuring slow-roasted brisket and pickled red cabbage.

The coffee offering is quality over quantity – espresso only using a house blend from Roastcraft and guest single origins from Maker Fine Coffee.

Lillie will open at 22 Chatham Street, Prahran, in January with deli-style salads by the scoop alongside an a la carte cafe menu.

Open Mon-Fri 7am-4pm, Sat-Sun 8am-5pm.

1 Grange Road, Toorak, 03 9827 2736, theeggshop.com.au

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