Whirrakee Restaurant

Opposite Bendigo's central landmark, Alexandra Fountain, an Edwardian-era bank building has bloomed into Whirrakee Restaurant - named after a local wattle. Chandeliers on high ceilings over white-clad tables add an air of special-occasion formality to the dining room. Owner-chef Brent Slade's enthusiasm for fine food is indicated by three pages of culinary descriptions with the menu, and by his creatively crafted dishes. The bill can add up, especially with side dishes, though complimentary extras help compensate: an appetiser here, a little pre-dessert there, and petits fours. A tasting plate of pate, terrine, smoked duck and rillettes may precede Erindale lamb with stuffed eggplant. A slight beet salad with goat's cheese, and a watery pea and fennel risotto might underwhelm; better is smoked ocean trout with a beetroot puree and touch of wasabi, followed by a trio of duck - roasted breast, leg confit braise and sausage - on savoy cabbage with a fragrant tarragon jus. The quartet of Valrhona chocolate delicacies is a masterpiece.