Akachochin

Veteran restaurateur Paul Mathis burst back on to the scene in 2012, opening several ventures in quick succession, including this contemporary Japanese-style bar. Akachochin is named for the red lanterns hung outside traditional izakayas, but this is a fairly high-end take on the concept. It's an inspired location (once you find it), in a South Wharf warehouse with views of boats chugging past. The fitout is luxurious, with timber panelling, marble-topped tables and a long sushi bar that's great for couples or solo diners. The sushi - mostly kingfish, scallops, tuna and salmon - is solid but unexceptional. You're better off treating the menu as a list of drinking snacks, moving between, say, a trio of oysters, deep-fried octopus, wagyu tataki, and the occasional dish that represents Japanese cuisine's strange fusion streak, such as a bizarre but delicious spring roll of pumpkin, prawn and blue cheese. Service is efficient and knowledgeable, with commendable attention to detail.