Bar Idda

WHERE AND WHAT

Sitting slap in the middle of hipper-than-thou Lygon Street (the Brunswick part, naturally), Bar Idda is a simple idea executed well. The no-frills home of Sicilian cucina povera has enough deliberately daggy authenticity - doilies and embroidered tablecloths, anyone? - making it an instant hit when it opened two years ago.

WHERE TO SIT

The long, narrow corner site, previously occupied by owner/chef Alfredo la Spina's friend and former colleague Joseph Abboud's Rumi, manages to pack plenty of tables into its small space but not all are equal. Try to sit in the front of the room; otherwise it's good to take a perch at the window ledge overlooking the street to watch the Lygon Street nightlife as people bar-hop from place to place. There are a couple of kerbside tables as well for catching rays and nicotine. Make sure you book because it seems to fill up every night.

WHEN TO GO

Bar Idda is open every night except Sunday, from 6pm until about 10pm.

DRINK

About a dozen labels make up the parochial all-Sicilian wine list that starts with the very affordable house wine by the carafe. Half a dozen beers stick to the Italian theme.

EAT

Let's start with the pie warmer behind the bar counter - a molto authentico touch of Siciliana and an effective way to keep the arancini warm. No balls of rice stodge here; La Spina's arancini are moist, saffron-hued and filled with a beef and pork ragu with peas and soft-boiled egg and just enough mozzarella to make them addictive. The other must-have from the starters list are the zeppole - savoury doughnuts of potato, parsley and a subtle hit of anchovy, a rustling bowl of them served up with a dish of lemon mayo. Secondi includes the eggplant layered with tomato, basil and pecorino, one of a bunch of dishes that ought to give vegetarians some joy, including several smartly composed salads - artichoke hearts with asparagus, carrot, celery and mint - that could comprise a course in themselves. Back on the carnivores' trail, the pistachio-crusted lamb is a winner with a sweet/sour vinaigrette and things finish on the well-worn note of cannoli, cassata and affogato.

WHO'S THERE

Count the skinny jeans: the laid-back vibe seems to attract the younger crowd to Bar Idda but the devotees of unpretentious Sicilian food comprise a broad church.

WHY BOTHER?

Like being in Sicily without forking out for the airfare.