Bar Idda

Each year, Bar Idda feels more bedded down in its cosy corner digs, beloved by the neighbourhood for its genuine warmth and unfussy Sicilian authenticity. Bottles of wine land on the plastic-covered tables with chunky glassware so you can pour your own, and a tiny TV mounted in the corner plays Italian soaps (sound down). The La Spinas - chef Alfredo and wife Lisa, who runs front-of-house - visit Sicily at least once a year and inspiration shows in the fresh, produce-driven dishes, designed to share. Mulinciani (tomatoey, cheesy eggplant) is a staple, and the salumi is usually made here. Tangy house-pickled octopus might be pan-fried with potato pieces, bitey with celery leaf and fennel. Zeppole, small potato, parsley and anchovy doughnuts, come dolloped with a lemony yoghurt mayo, and a home-made barbecue is used to great effect in mains such as butterflied baby chicken with a finger lickin' cinnamon, sea salt and sugar rub. Desserts veer from traditional (cannoli and cassata) to one-offs such as super-creamy blackberry gelato. Bar Idda just keeps getting better.