Bouzy Rouge

It may be named after a French wine, but Bouzy Rouge also suggests a casual theatricality that suits this cozy dining room. In the harem-on-safari interior, plump upholstered banquettes are strewn with cushions, and chandeliers and animal trophies add to the flamboyant design. Like a visit to an underground cabaret, it's a little bit naughty and a lot of fun. Warm and well-trained waiters will guide you through a menu inspired by the flavours of Portugal and Spain. You might start with generous tapas such as papas bravas, crunchy potatoes doused in a spicy tomato aioli, or a special of piquillo peppers, quickly scorched so the plump flesh is warm and charry. Main courses may include crunchy beer-battered fish and chips with tartare sauce, and rich warm kipfler potato and salmon salad, but the Iberian icons, paella and seafood stew, are the menu heroes. Crema catalana ('creme brulee's more attractive Spanish sister') is a rich and satisfying finale, best shared.