Breadwell

It's not just bread done well. In fact, the most interesting things on the menu at this classy daytime diner have little to do with bread at all. The breakfast menu is studded with fruit that's stewed, soaked and poached, and the long list of protein-y lunch options might include veal schnitzel, lamb souvlaki or fish pie among speedier salads and pides. Start the day with creamy porridge laced with caramelised apple and Earl Grey-steeped currants, or lunch on crisp-skinned chicken ribs spiked with salt, pepper and paprika with aioli on the side. It's at the Paris end of the city: the fine crockery and food is Marie-Antoinette charming, and they let you eat cake, too.