Dandelion

Just reading Dandelion's effervescent menu is enough to make your tongue tingle. Full of bright, fragrant herbs, top-notch produce and flavour-packed sauces (think red date and goji berry), Geoff Lindsay's modern Vietnamese offerings are broken down into 'nibbles', 'rolls', 'phos', 'curries' and 'grills'. Kick off with drunken chicken ribs in a crisp, spiced batter or perhaps the Buddha rolls, with chubby nubs of tofu and shiitake wrapped in rice paper. Wok-tossed king prawns are magnificently mammoth, doused in a tamarind caramel; the lauded barbecue pork spare ribs fall off the bone, justifiably popular for their messy succulence; and pho might feature mud crab, wagyu, or tofu with mushrooms and lily bud. The fitout is modern, with neutral tones and decorative greenery. Service can sometimes lack that assured quality, especially when pushing through two sittings, and some tables are more comfortable than others, but Dandelion is fresh, fun and an essential player in the neighbourhood. Bookings are essential.