15/20
Thai$$
It might be small, but Easy Tiger packs kapow into everything it does, from its fabulously feisty food to the small, design-den digs where everything (from the backlit line of glasses along one wall to the mural of a deer riding a magic carpet) is deliberate, good-looking and smooth. It's something of a local hero, so expect two sittings (6pm and 8.30pm) to cope with demand. Communal dining (share-plates and tables) promotes a polite level of sociability. The real energy, though, is on your fork, or in your fingers, collecting one-bite starters like ma hor, a sticky palm-sugar-sweet mince patty on a pedestal of fresh watermelon. Among curries, there's radiant sour orange with smoked trout and roasted cherry tomatoes. Of the salads, five-spice duck and watermelon is a virtual confetti of betel, mint and coriander leaves - sweet, salty, spicy and sour with nam jim and spring onion. Coconut-cream pudding may leave you planning your next visit the minute you finish your last mouthful.
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