Hako

Spacious and cool, Hako's minimalist interior shields you from the urban bustle of Flinders Lane. Once inside, you can absorb as much or as little of the city comings-and-goings as you please, glancing out through towering front windows with the comfort of a spectactor. The menu encourages adventurous sharing. Start with otsumami (small nibbly things) like a punchy mouthful of shiso-wrapped blue swimmer crab, or yakitori skewers (silky chicken skin is a great flavour carrier). Then, compete for the last crunchy morsel of squid-ink cuttlefish tempura, to be dipped in a gentle green-tea salt, or delicate slices of kingfish and grouper sashimi. Chawan-mushi, a savoury egg custard, makes for a seamless transition into more substantial main dishes, such as char-grilled kingfish collar, or slow-cooked beef ribs with a sweet soy and peppercorn sauce, best eaten with rice to mellow the richness. A berry-layered brik pastry with white chocolate mousse delivers a refreshing finish.