Jacques Reymond

In a classic Victorian mansion whacked with contemporary interior design, some aspects of Jacques Reymond reflect timeless values: the diner’s privacy, the importance of service, the sanctity of the dining room. You may call it old-fashioned; it’s not about restaurant democracy. Here, the customer is always king. But don’t let a French name suggest myopic cuisine.

Reymond the chef is an innovator and his meticulous food is for the adventurous, often with many elements to a plate. Thai flavours of lime and coconut with baby pigeon; Japanese accents to just-set ocean trout with tempura octopus; or Reymond’s signature juxtaposition of proteins such as his duck and squid ‘a la plancha’, or steamed oysters with lime/vodka dressing opposite a foie gras terrine with sauterne jelly.

This fastidious approach applies to crafted desserts, with a roll-call of many small players. Reymond’s ideas don’t mimic international directions in gastronomy; this is food to scratch your head to. ‘How,’ you think, ‘did they come up with that?’ The mystery is part of the appeal. A family business, Reymond’s strong service culture is exceeded only by the sense of hospitality.