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Kelp Cafe

14/20

Contemporary$$$

With the sea on one side and the hum of coffee machines on the other, Kelp Cafe stands out like a twinkling jewel on Point Lonsdale's main drag. By day the sleek grey interiors are brightened by smiling young staff who ferry fluffy pancakes, smashing seafood linguine, towering beef burgers, and great coffee to parents and their little nippers. At night, service and food are sharper. Dinner might start with a lick of sweet potato puree and rich black pudding sprinkled with rosemary salt sitting pretty alongside plump scallops. Mains are large. A tender venison loin is bolstered by roasted beets, tangles of chocolate pasta and a lively celeriac and horseradish puree. Tangy cherry ragout and herb coulis balance the smokiness of a glazed duck breast. To finish, perhaps Eton mess - a collision of crunchy meringue, passionfruit cream cheese, mixed berry compote, strawberry jelly and real vanilla ice-cream - or a deconstructed lemon meringue pie.

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