Los Hermanos

WHERE AND WHAT

Blink and you'll miss this little Mexican taqueria opened by Mexican-turned-Melburnian Bruno Carreto. Los Hermanos is off the main Sydney Road drag on the ''wrong'' side of the train line in a semi-industrial area. In the topsy-turvy world of street fashion, that makes it a de rigueur address: welcome to the latest haunt of the geek-chic clique.

WHERE TO SIT

Carreto built the interior of the 70-seater himself over eight months of hard slog, using recycled timber from around Brunswick. To good effect: the result is a place that feels lived in and just a little battle-scarred. Quasi-Mexican without indulging in cliche, the interior is uncluttered, with seating at varnished wooden tables or a long wooden bar, behind which the straightforward menu is chalked on a blackboard. Head out back - follow the line of potted cacti - to a courtyard strung with coloured lights.

WHEN TO GO

Monday to Wednesday, 6pm to 11pm; Thursday to Saturday, 6pm to 1am.

DRINK

Twenty tequilas are the focus of the drinks list, including a few rare specimens such as Don Fermin - triple-distilled, extra-aged and with a hint of chocolate and caramel, says Carreto, who's on hand to guide tequila novices. The wine list is short (seven whites and five reds), reasonably priced (the most expensive bottle is $44) and all available by the glass.

EAT

First thing to note: you can easily fill up here without hurting the wallet. Tacos, a mere $5 each, are of the larger school. There's lamb that's been slow-cooked on the bone, wrapped in a soft flour tortilla with salsa borracha, made from three types of chilli in a beer-based sauce. Chicken or beef, cooked with smoky chipotle (chilli), are finished with a zesty green tomatillo salsa, and vegetarians have zucchini or mushroom versions. For something different, try the cactus salad, the lime juice-pickled headline act mixed with a zesty combination of grilled onion and feta. Gorditas are warmed pockets of maize bread filled with a moreishly gooey mix of refried beans, ricotta and mozzarella; desserts are also worth a look, especially the flourless corn cake.

WHO'S THERE

Young men in rolled pants; young women with asymmetrical haircuts; the members of a local soccer team in for a post-game bite.

WHY BOTHER?

Mexican is now mainstream but Los Hermanos injects a bit of edge.