Mr Wolf

Its speciality is pizza and they're great, with unusual toppings and thin, crisp-edged crusts, but everything else exhilarates too. The atmosphere amid mod, minimalist decor is exuberant. Children through to seniors blend seamlessly, with waiters attuned to all needs. The most popular dish isn't pizza but delightful eggplant fritters -fleshy, deep-fried chunks, breadcrumb crunch, lemon-yoghurt mayo and roasted cumin. Karen Martini's sense of adventure is evident in the pizza combos. Broccolini and gorgonzola is wonderful, though the added pancetta may be fatty. One pizza features cauliflower, another has peas. It's about reclaiming the pizza for Italy, so no ham and pineapple, but enough mushroom, mozzarella and olive options for less experimental eaters. Other options include a lasagne, or maybe a casserole. Mousse is traditional and dense, made with good-quality dark chocolate, and 'dessert chocolate martini', made with chocolate sorbet, is so good you almost forget that gorgeous eggplant.