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Mr Wolf

Mr Wolf, restaurant, St Kilda, Melbourne.
Mr Wolf, restaurant, St Kilda, Melbourne.Supplied

14/20

Italian$$

Mr Wolf was among the pack of places that helped drive a pizza revolution, when red-carpeted barns made way for sharply presented restaurants serving premium ingredients on slim bases, accompanied by brilliant salads. Little has changed here since it opened in 2004. Nor has it needed to - this old dog does simple share food so well, it doesn't need new tricks. Early sittings seamlessly dispatch families through the dining cycle with colour-in menus and quick service. Later sittings see locals coming together over beers and pizza. Fifteen Roman-style, thin-crust varieties range from can't-go-wrong margherita to more out-there combos, such as roast cauliflower, pork-and-fennel sausage, pancetta and chilli. A shredded cabbage salad, with torn mint and shaves of radish, is fresh and fabulous. The polished room, with woodlands-inspired feature walls, can be noisy, just as you'd expect from a heaving easy-going place.

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