O'Connell's Centenary Hotel

Does this corner pub have Melbourne's culinary Midas touch? Greg Malouf, Cath Claringbold and Adrian Richardson all made their names here, and the tradition looks set to continue with two new chefs and a smart make-over. Luke van de Engel and Xavier Mercader are the latest custodians, running a well-drilled kitchen that doesn't mind the odd spice mix in a menu that's both inventive and reassuring. Fingers of fried white anchovies are perfect bar food, and an entree of wood-grilled octopus rubbed in chermoula paste and served with morcilla sausage and olives raises expectations. Mostly they're met, from the classics (veal schnitzel, steak-and-kidney pie), to roasted Suffolk lamb shoulder on a wonderfully rich jerusalem artichoke and white-bean cassoulet. Gastropub? You bet. Think choice ingredients (Myrtleford butter, rare-breed pork, house-churned ice-creams), and comforts (personable service, plush carpet, upholstered chairs) that keep its loyal crowd chipper.