Pei Modern

Matt Germanchis (Fat Duck, Pandora’s Box) and executive chef Mark Best (of Sydney’s celebrated Marque) serve up a stunning spin on new-school ‘bistronomy’ here. There’s an openness to their ideas, exemplified by ginger oil and sheep’s sorrel-dressed snapper tartare, its execution influenced by Asia down to its green rice cracker base. An entree of tomato carpaccio, layered with barely seared slices of scallop and dusted with powdered dried tomato, similarly shows off palate-opening produce and complexity. Lamb leg is just plain beautifully cooked and presented, with leeks in three ways (including a gorgeous, translucent crisped single layer) and a rich, satisfying sauce. Desserts, including house-made vanilla bean ice-cream, sugar plums and French meringue, are excellent. Surprisingly, Pei Modern is still edging to the front of Melbourne’s dining consciousness, a function perhaps of its Collins Place location and low-key, white-tiled room. One hopes that evolves: Pei Modern’s surplus of culinary and in-service substance compensates for its minimalistic style.

And … The bar’s open all day Monday to Friday.

THE LOW-DOWN
Vibe Melbourne bistronomy.
Best bit Culinary class.
Worst bit The location.