Persimmon

This coolly elegant, window-wrapped dining room takes a minimal approach to decor (low black ceiling, charcoal-grey banquettes) - all the better to take in the surrounding sculpture-garden views. The menu is a contemporary take on various cultural influences, explained effectively by friendly staff. A charcuterie plate of mushrooms, salami, prosciutto and grilled bread sets the scene for relaxed sharing alongside a kingfish sashimi with spring onions, pickled ginger and cashews. Penne pasta dressed in Persian feta, pinenuts and olives may be heavily salted and fail to ignite the same enthusiasm, although a main of smoked then braised lamb's neck is a revelation of sticky, dark, lacquered meat that falls apart in velvety shreds against a coleslaw of celeriac, cucumber and tarragon. Desserts keep up the modern edge and a creaming soda spider with vanilla and raspberry jelly is a playful and visually pleasing finale to an experience that satisfies all the senses.