Rufus

Witness the most absurd – and, OK, quite delicious – bar snack in Melbourne. The Yorkshire pudding roll at this upscale, upstairs cocktail bar arrives with a flourish on its own raised silver cake stand, despite being the size of a golf ball. Two buttery discs of bread-like "pudding" hold together a chunk of slow-cooked, pulled lamb drenched in peppered gravy, gone in two bites. It's the Rolls-Royce of sliders, and $11 a pop.

That's how things, er, roll at Rufus, which is a Winston Churchill-themed "Champagne parlour" owned by Daniel Verheyen, of cheese bar Milk The Cow. Rufus was the name of not one, but two of Churchill's beloved poodles, and there are quirky nods to the dogs and the late, great British PM throughout the intimate space, which used to be an art gallery.

Entering from a side lane off Greville Street is like arriving at a London members' club in the '90s, with shiny tiled facade leading to a reception area carpeted in astroturf.

Upstairs, there are two formal Victorian rooms with tall windows, slippery banquettes, low upholstered chairs and glittering chandeliers. It's tailor-made for well-heeled southern belles to have a drink before dinner at Toko or a night at Boutique.

Service is similarly formal, the menu unabashedly ritzy: a $100 tray of Siberian caviar, perhaps, or a glass of vintage champagne for an eyewatering price (bottle of 2003 Krug Clos du Mesnil​, $2027; magnum of 2006 Cristal, $1315).

Cocktails are a relative bargain at about  $18, with an extensive range of classics and signatures.

The Jock is a refreshing mix of Siembra tequila and Campari, a bitter kick met with the sweetness of house-made marmalade syrup and a splash of soda served in a gorgeous etched glass.

The Pig & Cat is their take on a negroni – more for the colour than the flavour – a blushing, syrupy blend of Edgerton pink gin and Lillet Rose in a crystal coupe.

Punters are encouraged to retire to the cute terrace overlooking Grattan Gardens and can even light up a Montecristo cigar ($52), if they're into that sort of thing.

In the words of Winston, "My tastes are simple: I am easily satisfied with the best."

Drink this ... The Jock, $19.

Eat this ... Yorkshire pudding roll, $11 each.

Know this ... Churchill's poodles (both called Rufus) ate in the family dining room.

Say this ... "I have taken more out of alcohol than alcohol has taken out of me."