Sarti

Wild boar. Suckling pig. Chestnuts. Pig's ear. It may sound like the menu of an Italian hunting lodge, but two wallaby dishes are a giveaway you're actually in the back of Bourke (Street); in fact, Russell Place, and the surroundings are far less rustic. The floors are freshly glossy, there's a long bar, tweed and leather banquettes, and jaunty red details such as a beautiful bunch of glass chillies. Appealing little starters or stuzzichini are charmers meant to share. Some are a bite, like silverbeet rolled around kingfish with a hit of sour, citrusy yuzu; some are several bites, think delicate wallaby carpaccio with a crunch of native pepper and malt, or prawn carpaccio with aromatic mandarin oil. Duck-egg pappardelle tangles with wild boar ragu, nuggets of veal stew come with artichoke and crisp, doughy cauliflower 'cous cous'. Service is polished but unstuffy. Pistachio panna cotta with a ball of caramelised popcorn to pull apart, or sugary, warm, puffy doughnuts will catch any prey.