Silks

A major makeover of the menu and a new chef have injected fresh life into this most opulent of Chinese restaurants. The elegant dining room is still dominated by a silk Mongolian tent, which gives way to a fine view over the Yarra, but the focus is firmly back on the plate. A fresh approach points to the full compass of Chinese cuisine. From the north comes the crunch of jellyfish or garlic cucumber, followed by tangy, thinly sliced pork and beancurd in chilli oil. Sichuan's fiery hot-and-numbing food is represented by versions of ma po beancurd and diced chicken in dried chilli. Simple stewed barramundi with black fungus reflects the more refined cuisine of Shanghai, while the vibrant flavours of Cantonese cuisine remain evident. With main courses hovering around the $55 mark and ranging into triple figures, this is not a budget option. But amid tough competition, and despite sometimes mechanical service, Silks looks on track to regain its former lustre.