Simon's Peiking Duck Restaurant

Simon Lay won legions of fans at Collingwood's Old Kingdom and many of them now flock here. Stage one: Simon carves the duck and provides instructions on folding the rich, juicy morsels, with skin rendered to glassy crispiness, inside paper-thin pancakes. Stage two: leftover meat is jumbled with shiitake mushrooms in handmade noodles. Stage three: a refreshingly simple duck broth made from the carcase. The decor's classic suburban Chinese, with bright lights and zero ambience, but there's a happy buzz.