Spice Temple

Bathed in a dramatic opium den-like gloom day and night, Neil Perry's ode to the spice and chilli-favouring cuisines of China feels as much glam nightclub as restaurant. Add a contemporary (but not overly intrusive) soundtrack and a basement bar dispensing excellent Chinese zodiac-themed cocktails and you may start wondering if you came to dine or dance. But once the food starts to land - wonderfully chewy-sweet 'fish fragrant' eggplant, fiery quail mince with peanuts and egg custard, sensational tea-smoked duck served cold with pickled cabbage, snake beans stir-fried with pork mince and intense XO sauce - eating becomes top priority. Chilli-laden items (don't miss kung pao chicken) are printed in red on the menu, handy for fans and phobes alike, and there are excellent, soothing sweet things such as a pretty Italian meringue-topped three-milk cake. Sharp service and a clever wine list help keep Spice Temple near the top of the Melbourne Chinese tree.