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The Point Albert Park

Lakeside luxury... The Point Albert Park.
Lakeside luxury... The Point Albert Park.Michael Clayton-Jones

Good Food hat15.5/20

Contemporary$$$

Caviar and crayfish, foie gras and wagyu … seldom does Melbourne see so many old-school luxe ingredients on a single menu. It’s a fine thing, then, that the kitchen crew handles them with a modern touch, delicacy and aplomb, whether you’re travelling degustation or a la carte. A duck-egg starter comes gently scrambled with creme fraiche, replaced in its shell and topped with Giaveri caviar: expensive, but exquisite. Big-ticket items aside, classical yet contemporary technique shines in every dish: a main coupling crisp-skinned Murray cod with poached Balmain bug, brought together with a light and lovely sauce Veronique. Premium steak, aged on site, is the house speciality, a happy match for beef-fat potatoes and back-vintage burgundy, while desserts like passionfruit curd encased in soft meringue are well partnered with suggested wines. Service is spot-on but not stitched-up. With its double-clothed tables, weighty cutlery and curved glass walls looking across the lake, the Point delivers luxury without gimmickry, fine dining with a subtle sense of fun.

And … A $40 two-course lunch deal is available.

THE LOW-DOWN
Vibe Lakeside luxury.
Best bit Pampering from a food and service A-team.
Worst bit Access, and parking fees. Maybe take a cab.

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