The Stanley

This lovely 19th-century building has everything a great country pub needs - stylish dining rooms, open fires, a cosy bar and a rambling beer garden - plus two charming hosts who know the meaning of hospitality. Classic comfort food, think burgers and fish-and-chips, is on offer in the bar but the dining room is where chef Shauna Stockwell really gets to show off. A compact menu, five dishes per course, is full of tempting choices. An artfully plated heirloom tomato confit bursts with sweetness, while dabs of Milawa goat's cheese and tiny croutons provide balance and crunch. A superbly tender poussin is matched with soft artichokes, creamy fromage frais and crunchy cos, an exercise in perfect textural balance, and a special of lamb with a wet chickpea braise has a smoky spiciness that does justice to this North African classic. Desserts are pure indulgence, such as the elegant pot of thick caramel cream with crunchy hazelnut biscotti.