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Despite sniping from some locals about inflated prices (they've gone from bargain basement to simply cheap) and limited menu, it's hard to fault Bankstown's soup central. Even its handsome red and gold chicken-and-beef-inspired logo spells class. Just a few minutes pass between ordering and receiving at table a very rich, very good beef or chicken pho with silky rice noodles, although the broth's temperature can vary a bit. Abundant accompaniments of bean sprouts, lemon, chilli and Vietnamese basil add texture and piquancy and for aficionados there are pho varieties available with tripe, cartilage, tendon and flank.