Antoine's Grill

After time spent cooking with Alain Ducasse in Paris and as a high-end private chef in the US, Antoine Moscovitz has hit terra firma in the Sydney suburbs at this affordable, family-friendly steakhouse with a French bistro accent. Wood panelling and claret-coloured walls signal the menu's carnivorous leanings - the chipotle pork ribs are already gaining a cult following, while aged grain-fed steaks are cooked with precision and served with classic bearnaise or red wine jus, and sides of chunky chips or mash. There's a lighter touch evident in the mild and velvety house-smoked salmon, while candied walnuts, Persian fetta and a textbook vinaigrette add sparkle to a salad of fat prawns. A lemon meringue tart hits all the right flavour notes, its deconstructed format the only real nod to current dining 'trends'. But food cooked with care and served with warmth doesn't need fashion to prove its worth, just a steady flow of happy diners.