Booth St Bistro

White tablecloths and good glassware, bottom-friendly booths and a smart bar create a sense of event and a measure of ease in this cosy, modern diner. The menu does both simple and complex, based on a seasonal selection that focuses on small producers. Tinder Creek duck is transformed into a fine confit and presented with cinnamon-scented red cabbage and spinach spaetzle, while braised beef cheeks are rich, winey and fall-apart, served with a puddle of impeccable carrot puree. Fried calamari and an overly sweet fig and green bean dip felt like an odd match, but a dense, twice-cooked blue cheese souffle is well lifted by tones of pear, hazelnut and truffle honey. A chunky passionfruit tart is fine, but a delicate, flourless pineapple coconut cake with a refreshing pineapple sorbet is so much better. Friendly waiters, a neat wine list, a comfortable atmosphere and top-notch produce add up to a good, all-round neighbourhood bistro.