Bronte Cucina

Bronte is a town in Sicily, so the name is not entirely unlikely. This is no usual suspect surfside cafe, either. Chef Alessandro Cola comes here via such stellar kitchens as Pendolino's, bringing with him a set of contemporary yet definably Italian dishes. In a tiny dining room behind night-time bi-folds, you might embark with smooth, salty, baccala balls on thyme-scented crackers, or a far-from-classic deconstruction of cuttlefish and peas - light, sweet and summery with pea puree, tomato and squid ink crumbs. Mezzalune (pasta crescents) wallow in chestnut, porcini, taleggio, walnuts and prosciutto, and a herb-crusted snapper fillet with braised artichokes and onion puree is flavour by the forkful. A smooth, thick chestnut brulee with pureed persimmon defines dessert pleasure. The waiters are cheery, if vague, and if there's no room behind the bi-folds, the outside tables offer winter heaters and blankets, the roar of the waves and the occasional Bronte bus.