Cuisine

The glassy modern architecture jutting out over the lake spells it out - it's all about the view. Even at night, amber lights twinkling at water's edge are diverting and well spaced; roomy tables just add to the mood. But food awaits. Translucent poached Moreton Bay bug sits in a buttery tomato emulsion, the delicate shellfish somewhat overpowered by coarse prosciutto chunks. Melting pork cheek braised for 16 hours contrasts with pear balls and fried scallops, a shellfish foam adding balance to a sweet honey clove jus. Tortellini was a little tough around the edges, but worked well with its creamy goat's cheese filling and braised oxtail ragu. A thick wagyu sirloin is all charm teamed with sweet baby onions, turnip and silverbeet purees and garlic crisps. Chequerboard ice-cream hits all points on the texture spectrum with firm licorice and creamy raspberry confections studded with shortbread shards and the pleasing grit of blitzed candied pistachios.