Da Mario

David and Marcelo Cowdrill's long-awaited sequel to Pizza Mario in Surry Hills has touched down in a sleek warehouse space in suddenly-happening Rosebery. There are no Thin 'n' Crispies or Hawaiians here, just classic Neapolitan combos cooked in a wood-fired oven until puffy around the edges, yet still pliable and easy to fold in the hands. The Margherita Extra (buffalo mozzarella, tomato and basil) is the go, but the ricotta, mozza and salame calzone also has its fans. Beyond pizza, there are addictive meat-stuffed green olives, a resolutely al dente bigoli pasta with duck ragu, and, of course, tiramisu.