Firefly

YOU can tell a lot about a bar from its staff, its drinks and its decor. But sometimes it's the location that speaks loudest. Firefly is in Neutral Bay, not exactly the epicentre of hip but hardly an uncivilised outpost either. Late in the afternoon, it's bustling with business people of all ages, stylish young women and a smattering of more mature types with unmoving hairstyles and imposing sunglasses. The clientele at Firefly, the northside sister of the similarly titled tapas and wine bar at Walsh Bay, features all these people and, for a bar, that is no mean feat.

SIZE IS LESS OF A PROBLEM this side of the harbour. Firefly at Walsh Bay is tiny, its waterfront balcony space heaving with pre-theatre drinkers. Northside Firefly inhabits a much larger, L-shaped space with wrap-around windows and a lofty eight-metre-high entrance area. There is table, bar, banquette and footpath seating, an open kitchen with a grey stone front and a long timber-topped onyx bar backed by a tall wall of wooden shelves said to be stacked with more than 2000 bottles of wine. Service is swift and, when recommending menu items, the staff know what they're talking about.

SUCKING INDELICATELY ON A HOME-MADE VANILLA ICE-BALL from a weakish negroni, Bar Hop ponders Firefly's impressive wine list with her sojourning old sticks. We murmur appreciation for the extensive list of exotic-sounding tipples from Spain, the US, Argentina, Chile, Austria, France and Portugal alongside many from Australia and New Zealand. There are 147 available and nearly 30 by the glass. Wine-buff mother has ordered her second refreshing sauvignon blanc from Marlborough, New Zealand, and wise father is savouring a warming Chilean red. Bar Hop cannot deter from her true duties. The negroni and vanilla ice-ball, a miracle of frozen spice and warm flavours (also available in lavender), followed a smoked maple manhattan, a marvellously sweet and tangy mix of smoked maplewood-infused whiskey, Rosso Antico fortified wine, maple syrup and orange bitters.

WE POLITELY GORGE ON ZUCCHINI FRITES, a surprisingly enjoyable pile of hot chip-like courgette lengths peppered with spices and served with a creamy dipping sauce. Further scoffing ensues when our rustic pizza — a rectangular length of crispy dough covered with mushroom segments and melted taleggio cheese — arrives. We could stick around for the tapas menu — white anchovies, half-shell scallops and salt cod croquettes look fetching — but we are sated to the point of quiet repose.

YOU'LL LOVE IT If not every bar worth drinking in has to be on the other side of the Harbour Bridge.

YOU'LL HATE IT If you feel jittery northside and want a table waiting. Firefly has a no-reservation policy after 4pm.

GO FOR The efficient, well-informed service, extensive wine selection and interesting edibles.

IT WILL COST YOU Beer $6-$8.50; glass of wine $8-$20; cocktails $13-$18; snacks, tapas, pizzas $5-$24.