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Food Society Article Lead - narrowSupplied

European$$

Dark beers and goulash, roast duck and dumplings, stuffed capsicum and juicy cabbage rolls spell Mittel Europa. So do tan wooden chairs, candlelight, and bow-tied, accented waiters. The 'Eastern European with a twist' menu is there to share, served on wooden boards or with glorious sauces, as in a rich tomato-and-sour-cream'd plate of red banana chillies stuffed with ricotta, mushrooms and rice. Goulash arrives as braised beef cheeks with a light, paprika-tinged jus and roasted spring vegetables; and the often-too-hearty stuffed dumplings - pelmeni and pierogi - are delicate and pretty.

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