Green Peppercorn

Green Peppercorn has many attention-diverting details, from the constellation of birdcages in one corner and the tuktuk parked near the kitchen to a series of menu hits, such as the fried ice-cream that sells out after heavy-traffic orders. This is a family affair, run by Tona Inthavong (who used to work at brother Tony Inthavong's restaurant, Holy Basil); head chef is sister Ketty and recipes are by their parents. Dad hand-makes the popular Lao sausages - peppery, plump and lemongrassy, completed with the zing of 'Mum's special sauce'. Order them. Tom yum is fragrant and vegie-rich; marinated beef jerky is a fun table-sharing snack; and fish cakes are good, if over-sauced. Essential. the ice-cream, encased in flaky filo pastry then deep-fried and served with toasty coconut muesli and caramel sauce. Service can be spotty, but the mostly on-mark menu makes up for it.