Neptune Palace

The throngs of business types at lunch, crisp tablecloths and period furniture wouldn't be out of place in an old Parisian restaurant. The suits are here for the wine, with great value on fine vintages. But there are Muslim families here too, for the halal Chinese food; and homesick Malaysians yearning for kampong-style comfort favourites such as char tow kueh (fried parsnip cakes). A creamy laksa with great depth of flavour in the subtly spiced stock and honestly fresh prawns is dramatically better than most food-hall versions. Otak-otak brings sophistication, with gently spiced minced coral trout cooked in a lotus leaf. Encik kebin is a simple and satisfying spice-coated deep-fried chicken. Soft-shell crab is outstanding, with a crisp exterior and crab meat full of flavoursome juices. The classic Malaysian dessert of sago pudding with smooth coconut milk has the requisite addictive caramel sweetness of palm sugar. Fancy a Chateau d'Yquem to go with it?