‘Nervous as hell’: George Calombaris takes the reins at one of Sydney’s top Greek restaurants

In a culinary plot twist, a celebrity Melbourne chef will replace the pioneer of Sydney modern Greek at one of the harbour city’s most-loved restaurants. Former MasterChef judge George Calombaris is headed north, joining Alpha restaurant next month as creative partner.

Alpha’s founding chef, Peter Conistis, has already departed the Castlereagh Street restaurant.

“What Peter’s done for Greek food in Australia is amazing,” Calombaris says of his predecessor. Keen to continue to evolve Alpha, the chef admits to some apprehension.

“I’m nervous as hell,” he says. “I come here with so much respect, joining somewhere steeped in history.”

Calombaris was lured by the challenge of a fresh city. While he has some experience in the Sydney market with his embattled souvlaki fast-food chain, Jimmy Grants, it’s his first restaurant venture in city. He previously came close, buying a building in Surry Hills, which was sold before actually opening as a restaurant. He will spend one week every fortnight in Sydney.

The chef was also intrigued by the “evocative” bones of the Alpha building. “The Greek consulate is across the road, there are Greek men playing backgammon behind [Alpha], it has a great feel,” he says.

At Alpha, he has a clear idea of the food direction. “Fresh, bright, light, yummy, super interesting, not cliched,” he says. “I want the place to be fun. I’m into fun dining, not fine dining.”

The venue has been fronted by chef Peter Conistis since its 2013 opening. Rumblings of change at Alpha surfaced late last year when its landlord and operator, the Hellenic Club, quietly invited a small posse of Sydney’s A-list restaurateurs to pitch to operate the luxe Castlereagh Street restaurant. In January, Good Food revealed Public Hospitality had added the hatted restaurant to its portfolio.

“I want the place to be fun. I’m into fun dining, not fine dining.”

George Calombaris

Public has ridden a few bumps on its expansion trail, but The Australian Financial Review reports it is in discussions with global juggernaut Bain Capital and Sydney-based private debt investor Madigan Capital to put together $500 million in debt refinancing. Public has had some big wins with its chef collaborations, notably Guy Grossi at Puttanesca restaurant in Melbourne and Karen Martini at Saint George in St Kilda, which last week nabbed a 15/20 Good Food review.

Calombaris has also experienced his share of controversies over the years, with his Made Establishment group going into administration in early 2020, forcing 12 venues to close. The collapse followed the business identifying $7.8 million in underpayments to 515 employees, who have since been reimbursed.

Public’s web of businesses will enable the Maybe Sammy bar team to advise on Alpha’s drinks and bar, while future additions at the Sydney restaurant include a raw bar, new oven for fresh bread and even a “Greek karaoke room”.

Calombaris will work with the existing Alpha team, including head chef Alessandro Mandelli, and has lured general manager Joey Commerford (The Press Club, Vue de Monde) up from Melbourne.

While stressing his menu won’t be unveiled at Alpha until next month, Calombaris has already sorted his work commute. He’ll alternate between his one-hatted Hellenic House Project in Melbourne and Alpha for the next six months, before deciding on the next step.

An unabashed fan of Sydney, Calombaris is revelling in the new opportunity. “I’m older and more mature, that egotistical young chef has gone,” he says. “The day I stop learning I should hang up the apron.”