New Shanghai

Choosing between the New Shanghais? As one waiter describes it: 'Menus a bit different, Lemon Grove more Chinese, Chase more mall crowd'. Lemon Grove's decor is cheerfully utilitarian; the Chase is swish 1930s Shanghai, with tea and wine lists. Both feature clear, clean flavours: chicken soused in Chinese wine, diced tofu subtly sauced with crab and ginger; crisp green beans scattered with pork mince and dried shrimp; sweet, gooey fried pumpkin buns. Glassed dumpling stations churn our dinky xiao long bao and pan-fried pork buns. Also Ashfield 9797 7284 and Bondi Junction 9386 4623.