PaperPlanes

That's not the sea breeze you hear - it's the breath of fresh air being blown into Bondi by the new Beach House complex. At the heart of this eat, chill, dine and shop precinct is the latest offering from the brothers behind Potts Point's LL Wine & Dine. Their theme is Tokyo Pop, with a ceiling hung with skateboard decks and origami cranes, and a 10-metre-long bar manned by a trifecta of cocktail-shaking bartenders, a headphone-clad DJ and knifewielding sushi chefs. The mod Japanese menu ranges from classic, skilfully made tuna toro nigiri sushi to brave-new-world prawn gyoza with creamy lemon wasabi foam and wasabi peas. Salmon tartare with prawn cracker 'nachos' is a classy way to start, and a big share dish of braised beef shortribs with yakiniku sauce and pickled vegetables has flavour to burn. The Tokyo Pop lemon cheesecake is a real fizzer (in a good way), finished with pop rock candy.