Rengaya

Rengaya's the name and yakiniku, or DIY coal-fired barbecue, is the game, although all the usual Japanese suspects populate the menu - from sushi and sashimi to soba, sukiyaki and shabu-shabu. And extremely creditable versions they are, too. This cosy, den-like restaurant has been around for nearly 20 years, so you'd expect them to get things right. The business end of the menu focuses on an extensive selection of wagyu cuts, each photographed with forensic accuracy and described in similar mode (outside skirt is 'the thick part of the diaphragm muscle'; the centre oyster blade fibre 'is thick and big'). Choose your cuts with help from the waiters, throw in a few vegetal accompaniments and dipping sauces, then go cow crazy over the grill. Meat arrives in neat, quick-cook pieces and, once infused with charcoal smoke, melts into rich, beefy yumminess. Desserts are uniformly creamy, with versions of ice-cream, brulee and mousse predominating.