Ruby's Mount Kembla

In a past life, it was a post office and general store for a thriving mining town; now this charming wooden building has been graciously restored. And from a demitasse of butternut pumpkin soup to a glorious pistachio and olive cake with tonka bean panna cotta and pistachio ice-cream, the skills of chef Scott Woods bring Ruby's well and truly into the here and now. Contrasting textures and flavours bring joy with pan-seared barramundi, chanterelles, smoked tomato and a splodge of caper-raisin emulsion. Some of the carefully crafted dishes err on the teensy size and you may find yourself longing for more. a beetroot and goat's cheese salad with raisin compote and a tiny splodge of hazelnut dressing, for example, although succulent confit pork belly with butter-poached blue swimmer crab and braised quinoa was reassuringly generous. Sweet carrot puree, purple carrots and baby turnip balance the succulence of crisp duck breast and a luscious slow-cooked leg. And then there's that champion pistachio cake for dessert!