14/20
Contemporary
Crunch. Prawn tails should be removed from risotto when you turn the lights down low to make a dining room look this sexy. Yes, the Beauchamp (pronounced Beechum) still wears old-school wall tiles that announce this is a pub, ahem, of a certain age, but stylish low-slung couches plus late kitchen hours invite you to linger. The fare here is familiar Mod Oz - something that makes it stand out on a block filled with Vietnamese, Thai, Brazilian, Greek and Balkan eateries. The wine list includes 11 organic or biodynamic wines (six by the glass); tap cider is a tasty English export.
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