the devonshire

While much is made of the devonshire's Pomminess - the tongue-in-cheekily- deconstructed cream tea dessert, the bill brought in a teacup - there's more to it than mere novelty. Jolly sommelier Matthew Jolly keeps the atmosphere relaxed in a comfortable room of dun tones and twice cloth'd tables, while Michelin-credentialled Jeremy Bentley brings assured, nuanced, inventive cooking to the pass. The bluff understatement of the short, seasonally influenced menu hardly does justice to a prettily plated platter of warm carrot batons, subtle parmesan cream and sweetly concentrated pureed peas; discs of rare, well-dressed wagyu scattered with crumbed brisket balls and crisp fried jerky; or a smoky slice of rare venison with one big, terrific beetroot and tongue tortellino. Apple tempers the fennel and rocket salad with its clever walnut dressing, while orange jelly teams with rich chocolate mousse, parfait and brownie, generous enough for two.