The Fish Shop

It's hard to tell who's having the most fun at this hysterically over-themed fish restaurant - owner Justin Hemmes and his sailor-striped staff, or the loud, excitable, who's who posse that packs the place out. What was Dan Hong's modish Lotus is now part English chippy, part New York oyster bar and part Maryland crab shack, complete with stool-lined high benches, nautical knick-knacks, mounted fish and a weather-beaten, take-away fish counter. In the open kitchen, the seriously talented Jeremy Strode and his team turn out crowd-pleasing fish 'n' chips, potato scallops, fish fingers, and dim sims, as well as daily-changing market specials featuring sustainably sourced and locally caught fish. A whole grilled-then-baked blue mackerel is robust and meaty, and mussels cooked with white wine and shallots are fat and juicy. Snapper steamed acqua pazza-style with cherry tomatoes and capers is bursting with flavour. Apart from ice-cream, there's only one dessert on offer, so it's just as well you wanted a biscuity ice-cream sandwich.