The Malaya

The Malaya chalked up its 50th anniversary in 2013, a milestone few Sydney restaurants reach without doing something right. It certainly runs like a well-oiled ship, service calm in the face of a storm of customers, signature dishes such as The Malaya laksa surviving fad and fashion, constructed with 'spicy milk soup'. It also charges a reasonable bounty, but harbour views are included. Pork san choi bao is serviceable, but it's worth upgrading to the dreamily light spanner crab version. Despite its name, The Malaya can roam for inspiration. Sichuan eggplant is worth the trip - a mix of crisp and soft textures littered with large dried chillies. There's nothing fancy about an Indonesian-style beef rendang, just good-quality produce and confident execution. A dessert platter - presented like a sculptural ode to petits fours - will please many, apart from old-school Asian restaurant fans craving a finale of sliced fruit.