Wilbur's Place

Every suburb deserves a local like this one. It mightn't possess the accoutrements of Sydney's better restaurants, but grab a table outside in the laneway, unshackle any thoughts of fancy seating, plonk yourself on a stool and you're in for a pleasant time. Wilbur's is an egalitarian restaurant where the prices are low but the produce isn't second rate. The menu hovers around the classics. it might be a terrine, or porcini arancini given extra wattage with truffle mayonnaise. It's also all about eating rather than dining, so main courses are perfect in-and-out territory. Braised beef short rib is joined on the plate by a generous chorus of spinach puree, roasted beetroot and cavolo nero. Yellowfin tuna is a simple, clean ride, jump-started with chilli and fennel. As it's owned by the team behind Bourke Street Bakery, the bread is good. And when it comes to the finale they let you eat cake, or, in Wilbur's case, a brilliant brioche ice-cream sandwich with caramel.