Guillaume at Bennelong

With a window seat in this iconic building, it's easy to let venue and view take centre stage. That is, until a beautifully balanced entree of duck rillettes arrives at the table, a neat slice of shredded meat beneath a sweet layer of mahogany-coloured port jelly, with a truffle-scented leaf salad and truffled brioche. Truffles are liberally dotted over a royale of velvety asparagus with a fat strip of flaked mud crab. But it's not all about luxury ingredients. A perfectly steamed pink snapper fillet comes wrapped in braised endive amid delightfully contrasting flavours of sea urchin butter, clams and mussels. Braised shoulder and roasted leg of Flinders Island lamb are well prepared, but fight for attention with a rich chermoula sauce and cumin puree. The curtain comes down on a delightful dessert of raspberries, vanilla cream, pistachio gateaux and raspberry sorbet, completing a performance as fine as any you'll see beneath the soaring sails.